Thursday, January 11, 2024

Krakow Old Town and Krakow Jewish Quarter: Day 9

 


Welcome to Krakow. Here is the traditional north entrance to the royal city. The outside fortification is called Barbakan, built in the 1400s,  and in the background of the photo you can also see St Florian's Gate, one of the direct entrances to the Old Town.

This is a closer view of St Florian's Gate, providing another level of protection for the old royal city. And yes, Krakow is the first city on our itinerary where we've had to walk on snow.

The view of Old Town from the north entrance. Ahead is Sukiennice, or Cloth Hall, an area of international trade from the 1400s. This large building still holds many stalls where crafters sell amber jewelry, wooden boxes and figurines, porcelain dishwear, leather goods, folk costumes, and many more types of products interesting to travelers.


Among many significant things we learned was that the young priest Karol Wojtyla, who grew up to be Pope John Paul II, studied and worked in Krakow.  Those buildings directly related to his life are so designated on the exterior. See two examples, below.





We made our way to Wawel Hill where Wawel Castle and Wawel Cathedral are still integral parts of Polish life. And where some souvenirs were bought.
Our first view of the castle

In the cathedral courtyard

In the castle courtyard

Another day at a castle!



From Wawel we moved to the Jewish Quarter, which is called Kazimierz after King Kazimierz III the Great declared this tract of land a new town in 1335. The land was very important as it connected Krakow with the salt mines at Wieliczka, the source of the region's wealth.

Jews had been living in Malopolska since the 1200s and were not restricted to a particular region until later in history (just as Maria Theresa expelled Jews from Prague as we learned earlier during this travel seminar).

To the left is the town fortification wall and the Old Synagogue is on the right.

Here is the other side of the fortification wall.

Remuh Synagogue, constructed in the 16th Century, is still in use. It was originally named after the famous philosopher and writer Moses Isserles, aka Rabbi Remu'h.

The front of Remu'h Synagogue (and tour cars obstructing the view)




The wrought-iron enclosure around the bimah is crafted to the regional styles; this particular one is a reconstruction following WWII.


The Remu'h Cemetery was saved from German destruction by reposing the tombstones on the ground; hence, going unnoticed.

We continued to the former Jewish Ghetto, which was opened in March 1941. When Germany invaded Poland there were approximately 68,000 Jewish families in the region. German officers demanded their expulsion from Krakow in May 1940, even prior to setting up the Jewish ghetto. By the time the ghetto was opened only 15,000 Jewish families remained. Families could only bring in personal possessions up to 25 kilograms of weight; anything over was confiscated by the German Trust Office.






Ghetto Heroes Square, looking toward Eagle Pharmacy. Owned by Tadeusz Pankiewicz, he convinced Germans to keep the pharmacy open and was instrumental in assisting Jewish families in the ghetto.

The German occupation of Poland led to restrictions that were imposed and tightened. Some photos from the Schindler Factory Museum:








Another day of reminders of how "us" and "them" decisions from 1933 resulted in tragic deaths of millions of innocent humans in the 1940s. Antisemitism was the foundational thought of the Nazis. And hatred of all except oneself propelled them until Germany's defeat. Over and over we are reminded that the small decisions we make today will have an impact tomorrow. To say "never again" we need to understand the past. Our studies have made us very aware of this brutal past. 

But, to end on a lighter note, students and professors enjoyed dinner in the Jewish quarter and were treated to a concert of Klezmer music by a wonderfully talented trio of musicians. 

Watch a short video of the music concert here: